The Romantic City of Heidelberg

The View from Dominique's Apartment

Darkness had settled in by the time I reached the Heidelberg Hauptbahnhof on Sunday night. Dominique greeted me with his usual warm smile and a hug. Dominique, whom I had met somewhere along the Way, was full of energy, ready to show me his stomping grounds of Heidelberg and Bammental. But first, we went to see Kissin Dynamite at the Schwimmbad Club––its final concert before closing its doors after 30 years. Initially I was apprehensive about seeing a heavy metal band; I wasn't sure I was up for it after all these years. But, I armed myself with ear plugs and Coca-Cola,  and prepared for a long, hard night; however, I ended up having a blast and was reminded how much I love metal. We rocked out like it was the 80's all over again––heads banging, hair flying––and after the concert, which ended by 11 p.m., the band members hung out, signed autographs, and talked with fans. To my surprise it was a very tame experience. I was even a bit disappointed that there hadn't been a long, drawn out series of encores because I was zinging from downing pop all night, but after I got home, I crashed out and slept like a baby.

A tidal wave of sunlight crashed through Dominique's apartment in the morning. I sprang from bed and peered out the window––I couldn't wait to see the view. I stared at the patchwork of rolling green pastures and tree covered hills that were skirted by a small dirt road that meandered through the countryside. In the distance, there was another small town and to the south, a thick, heavy fog settled over the River Neckar. The sun melted the chill in the air and it had grown warm––warm enough to hike from Bammental to Heidelberg. After breakfast we hiked up the mountain and stopped for homemade tea before entering the forest.

View of Bammental at the Forest's Edge

I listened intently as Dominique shared the adventures he'd been on since he'd returned home from the Camino; he had been traveling, meeting new people, motorcycling, and chairing the Heidelberger Tafel, a nonprofit organization that feeds those in need. I sipped on the marrow of life that surrounded us as we walked through the countryside and it occurred to me that this was the first time I had hiked since the Camino.

Twisted Trunk

Trees Upon the Mountaintop

Before we descended the mountain we stopped and looked down upon Heidelberg. The fog was like a bed of cotton and it was so thick and heavy you could have laid upon it without falling through. After drinking more hot tea, we turned our backs to the sun and trekked down the path.

Heidelberg from the Königstuhl

The trail weaved through the steep wooded slopes of the Königstuhl––known as the king's seat––and we descended the mountain quickly. It was cold when we slipped into the shadows and at the bottom of the trail, we went back in time. There, standing before us, were the ruins of Heidelberg Schloss, one of Germany's most famous castles, built in the early 13th century.

Heidelberg Schloss

Fog crept over us as we walked through the ruins. The lights from old Heidelberg radiated through the mist, inviting us down from the castle into the warmth of the city below.

Every shop window cast a festive glow into the streets, inviting onlookers in for food and drinks, shelter and warmth. After a warm meal and some hot coffee, we wandered through the narrow streets, peered in windows, and eyed various sundries and gifts––bookshops and cafes, pubs and restaurants, and sellers of this and that––it was like a place of make believe and I realized how utterly romantic it all was. I thought of my boyfriend and wished he had been there with me to share it. Momentarily, I felt terribly sad, but then thought, I will just have to come back!

Heidelberg

We turned a corner and I saw the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge). I was positive at that moment that I was in a fairy tale storybook; it was a mystical sight––like nothing I had ever seen before––and the fog made the gate seem more like a port key to another world than passage to the other side of the river.

Old Bridge Gate

On the Old Bridge Looking Back at Old Heidelberg

We crossed through the gate, walked onto the bridge, and stared back at the old city. It was a charming, magical place and we regretted having to leave, but it had grown late and we were cold. On the way to the train station we passed by the Christmas Market once again. The castle had disappeared as if by magic, swallowed up by the dense fog. The warm day had turned into a bone-chilling evening, and I suddenly realized how tired I was. We had walked ten or twelve miles by this point, maybe more, and a home-cooked meal sounded wonderful.

Heidelberg Christmas Market

Dominique made vegetarian spaghetti for dinner and shared many stories about his family's immigration to Germany before we both drifted off to sleep.

Dinner with Dominique