Carpe Diem

Surfer at Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz, California overlooks the drop in. 

Water slops against your board as you sit in wait. The only thing between you and two-thirds of the water and wildlife on Earth is your board. Humbled by the vast ocean, you feel infinitesimal and alone, yet connected to life, one with the Earth. 

The sweet smell of Sex Wax melts away your anxieties. Taste the salt on your lips. Listen to the seagulls bantering overhead. Feel the sun warm your salt-filled hair. Tranquility takes you to a zen-like state where nothing but the moment exists. 

On the horizon, the break you have been waiting for. You turn, paddle, and in seconds the ocean sweeps you into her adventure. You drop in, jump to your feet, and ride in thrilling exhilaration. Her power takes you as far as you are willing to go, then releases you back into her calm. 

The rush is intoxicating. The cornucopia of sensual stimulation addictive. You have little choice but to paddle back out. And so you do, again and again, set after set, day after day, year after year. 

This is the good stuff. This is what life is all about—living in the moment. Ceasing opportunities. Following your bliss. Feeding your soul. Living in peace. 

Namaste