Finisterre

And so it ends just as it began. Foggy, rainy, cold. Bookends for 33 days of Camino sunshine.  Finisterre, the end of the earth; a perfect place to complete this journey. Magical moments culminate in this sleepy coastal village, a retreat from bustling Santiago. Reflection of the Camino comes easily while sipping coffee in a seaside bar. Good food, great music. Wonderful friendships. The best memories made along The Way. And the dawning of my next Camino...

A Peregrino's First Reflections at Santiago de Compostela

Santiago de Compostela. A goal. A destination. An ending. A beginning. A coming together of souls who've sought together, fought together, and finished together. It is here that one Camino ends and another begins. 

When I began this journey I decided to share my experience, strength, and hope in a very public way through this blog. The Camino has been as much a shared experience as a private one. As I think back on the realities of pilgrimhood there are the things that come to the forefront of my mind both literally and metaphorically that I want to share.

1. Minimalism. Carry only what I need. Know when to let go and if I'm unsure, ask for help. It's ok to drop the rock. If I drop the rock and need one later, there are plenty of others I can find along The Way. When I carry more than I need, I get hurt. 

2. Sharing. Share what I have. Allow others to share with me. Honor and trust this free exchange-no strings attached. 

3. Simplicity. Walk. Eat. Sleep. Repeat. Things work themselves out when I get out of my own way, keep my head where my feet are, and keep it simple. 

4. Love, Honor, & Respect the Earth. I am part of a collective whole; I belong to the Earth, it does not belong to me. When Mother Nature is my center, life makes a lot more sense. 

5. Humanity. When I walk, endure, and celebrate with my fellow pilgrims we become something more; there is an understanding between us that breaks down artifical boundaries and unites us as members of the human race. 

6. Friendship. I arrived alone and will leave alone, but I am not alone. Bonds made on the Camino-the journey of life-will not be broken. 

7. Laughter. Welcome back. 

8. Appreciation for: Everything and everyone. Myself. My health. My friends and loved ones. Fresh air. Clean water to drink. Food. A safe place to lie my head at night. A warm shelter. A warm bed. Running water. Hot running water. Toothbrush and toothpaste. Soap. Towels. Sun cream. Hats. Clothes. 

9. No Stress. Santiago will be there when I get there. The turtle always finishes. Go slowly. My pace is my choice. Multitasking is not the only way; do one thing and do it well...or at least well enough. Siesta exists.

10. Let go and trust The Way. Go with the flow. Deal with what's at my feet in this moment, not what may be twenty feet ahead lest I may get tripped up.

11. Follow my Bliss.

12. Self-Trust. Listen to my body. Listen to my gut. Listen to my friends. Spend less time in my monkey mind and trust what I'm being told by those who love me, including and above all my body, heart, and soul.

More will be revealed...

Final Trek to Santiago

The final journey. A panoply of emotions, thoughts. Pantea, Thomas, and I made our final journey into Santiago Thursday.  800K in 31 days. Sometimes pictures say more than words...

Last 100K

The last 100K have been, in a word, disappointing. The scenery is shit; we are now in Anywhere, USA or Anytown, Germany; same foliage, westernized architecture and industrialization, traffic and noise. It doesn't feel like the Spain I've come to appreciate and adore: crap pilgrim menu, all-day siestas, no multitasking, business sense or customer service. Everything before Sarria was magical and necessary. The Camino, for me, was not a hiking trip, it was a journey inward; a process experienced over time that could not be rushed. Now, things are different; a slow reintegration into westernized society. I suppose it had to happen but to make matters worse, the 100K pilgrims have infiltrated our Camino. Since Sarria something has been lost; the connection between us diluted by faces unfamiliar. The new pilgrims are easy to spot with their clean, petite day packs, uninjured legs and blister-free feet, makeup on, hair brushed, some fashionably dressed. There is some resentment, maybe even disdain for these green pilgrims. We pass them, "Buen Camino" and they say nothing. They don't know "The Pilgrim Way." Now everything everywhere is crowded: restaurants, bars, The Way. Even the albergues are having to turn people away because they are "completo"- full so sometimes a tired pilgrim has to keep walking. There is clear separation between 100Kers and seasoned peregrinos. There are many things we've gained which they won't, but of course, not everyone comes here for the same reasons.

The 100K mark also appears to be where many Spaniards start their Camino. I was wondering where all the hot Spanish men were, now I know...not on the Camino until after Sarria. The Spaniards must think we are crazy walking from France. They also probably think we stink-we do-and are only willing to subject themselves to us for so long.
The lessons and wisdom of the Camino will always be here for those who seek but it takes time. Five days is not even close to enough time for anything transformative to happen. No pain, no glory. Alas, there is no wrong way to do the Camino, even for the 100Kers. At least they are here. At least they are giving themselves the gift of this experience, this opportunity. I praise their courage. Walking 100 kilometers is no small feat...but I still would like to see them repeat it seven more times and get a few blisters before they have bragging rights and get a Compostela. Just sayin.

No Pain, No Glory

Wind in my face. Sun at my back. Challenging mountain climbs. Fridges temperatures. Rastafarian bars. No wifi. Profound conversations. New friendships. Downhill slopes. Intense sunshine. Recovery. Sleep. Another lifetime lived as we hiked over purple mountains into the Celtic region of Spain, Galicia.

We have been hiking for 27 days; tomorrow will mark four weeks. We have less than 100 kilometers to go but somehow arriving in Santiago no longer matters; it is the walking that is important, what I will miss-the Camino itself. 

The journey has been filled with so many brilliant moments that it's virtually impossible to share this transformational experience except to say, It must be done-all of it. It is a process which one goes through to feed their soul. Each day important, each experience necessary. Every outcome a lesson learned. It is a journey inward that begins with the first step. There is no good or bad on the Camino, it just is. What is endured makes us stronger, not just physically, but in spirit and in character. No pain, no glory.