Last 100K

The last 100K have been, in a word, disappointing. The scenery is shit; we are now in Anywhere, USA or Anytown, Germany; same foliage, westernized architecture and industrialization, traffic and noise. It doesn't feel like the Spain I've come to appreciate and adore: crap pilgrim menu, all-day siestas, no multitasking, business sense or customer service. Everything before Sarria was magical and necessary. The Camino, for me, was not a hiking trip, it was a journey inward; a process experienced over time that could not be rushed. Now, things are different; a slow reintegration into westernized society. I suppose it had to happen but to make matters worse, the 100K pilgrims have infiltrated our Camino. Since Sarria something has been lost; the connection between us diluted by faces unfamiliar. The new pilgrims are easy to spot with their clean, petite day packs, uninjured legs and blister-free feet, makeup on, hair brushed, some fashionably dressed. There is some resentment, maybe even disdain for these green pilgrims. We pass them, "Buen Camino" and they say nothing. They don't know "The Pilgrim Way." Now everything everywhere is crowded: restaurants, bars, The Way. Even the albergues are having to turn people away because they are "completo"- full so sometimes a tired pilgrim has to keep walking. There is clear separation between 100Kers and seasoned peregrinos. There are many things we've gained which they won't, but of course, not everyone comes here for the same reasons.

The 100K mark also appears to be where many Spaniards start their Camino. I was wondering where all the hot Spanish men were, now I know...not on the Camino until after Sarria. The Spaniards must think we are crazy walking from France. They also probably think we stink-we do-and are only willing to subject themselves to us for so long.
The lessons and wisdom of the Camino will always be here for those who seek but it takes time. Five days is not even close to enough time for anything transformative to happen. No pain, no glory. Alas, there is no wrong way to do the Camino, even for the 100Kers. At least they are here. At least they are giving themselves the gift of this experience, this opportunity. I praise their courage. Walking 100 kilometers is no small feat...but I still would like to see them repeat it seven more times and get a few blisters before they have bragging rights and get a Compostela. Just sayin.