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Friday, May 15, 2015

Vegetarians Beware


Flapjacks, poached eggs, and a sixteen ounce Pete's Americano. It's funny what I think about during the first part of my daily walk; I find myself daydreaming about my favorite foods.
If there is one thing on the Camino that has been a total bummer for me it's been the food. Omnivores, carnivores, and wine drinkers are in seventh heaven but vegetarianism is still a foreign concept here. I'm failing to get enough protein on a daily basis. Beans, tofu, and protein bars do not exist along the Camino. Tuna and other sea creatures with little faces are "non-meats." My limited Espagnol now includes "sin carne" (no meat) and "sin atun" when ordering anything "vegetal" because "vegetal" doesn't mean what I think it should. I eat eggs and yogurt whenever I have the option and am getting by but it's getting old. The Pilgrims Menu was old by day five because there are only three vegetarian options. Unlike America where one can order items sans meat, that generally doesn't work here. I tried ordering a cheese sandwich once and the guy looked at me like I had three heads and said "no!" It was explained to me that they make it how they make it and that's just how it is. So I haven't tried to order specialty items since. The one thing I can say though is the coffee kicks ass.
Breakfast usually consists of coffee, orange juice, bread, and maybe a packaged pastry. The rest of the day is survival by tapas (most contain meat) or tortillas cueso (potato & cheese pie). Regular restaurant type meals are not served until 1900 or 1930 and there is plenty of white bread and vino to go around a few times. Supermarkets and other shops are often not open until evening and in the villages they carry an extraordinary amount of junk food; all the candy, cookies, chips, and ice cream you can think of but little in the way of vegetables and fruits. Fresh baked breads and pastries are a challenge to find but are available if you know where to look. The best meals I've had on this trip have been the ones made by friends in the Albergues. Eating out just isn't the Spanish way. So, if you are used to eating out almost every meal and/or you're a vegetarian, the Camino will put your taste buds and patience to the test. I do have to mention however that there is a bar in Castrojeriz (you'll find it) that serves vegetarian pizzas that are damn good- but perhaps they just seem like they are after two weeks of pilgrim food...




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