A lifetime is lived in 48 hours on the Camino. With every step, a new experience so intense that it's impossible to believe all you've seen and done is such a short period of time. This evening I looked through the last days photographs, and asked Thomas, "Was that just two days ago?" He nodded.
It's been more difficult to write these past days while on the Turtle Way. There is little time at the end of the day to write after walking so far so slowly but I will do my best to recapture the experiences.
Thomas the Animal Whisperer and I departed Rabanal del Camino on Monday morning. Our mission: hike 30 kilometers to Ponferrada on the other side of the mountain. Bright skies, cool winds, and easy temperatures blessed us as we made our climb through the most stunning mountain pass I have ever seen. Brilliant wild flowers, gorgeous watering pools, and peaceful villages with gracious inhabitants and free roaming animals made each kilometer more amazing than the last. 
A few kilometers later we arrived in Manjarin, a one of a kind refuge run by a man named Tomas, a modern day Templar. Words cannot describe the experience; it is simply a necessary stop for every pilgrim after Cruz Ferro. It's also the last spot to grab a cup of coffee before the seven kilometer descent.
Down the mountain we trekked, stunning views abound, and then...my first call of nature. I had hoped to avoid this type of Mother Nature bonding experience, most especially on a windy day, but a few cups of coffee turned seven short kilometers into three or four too many. Alas, I managed to accomplish this task successfully without embarrassment. While I hope this was a one and only event on this Camino, I can now say with relative confidence I can handle such an emergency in the future. Yay me.
Down the mountain we trekked, stunning views abound, and then...my first call of nature. I had hoped to avoid this type of Mother Nature bonding experience, most especially on a windy day, but a few cups of coffee turned seven short kilometers into three or four too many. Alas, I managed to accomplish this task successfully without embarrassment. While I hope this was a one and only event on this Camino, I can now say with relative confidence I can handle such an emergency in the future. Yay me.
Thomas and I arrived in Molinaseca late in the afternoon. We spied our friends Ann and Pantea before heading into Ponferrada, a small city with an impressive Templar Castle built during the 13th century. It also had some of the best food I've eaten thus far during my Camino. Though I saw little of the city it seemed a neat place worthy of more time.
The Way on Wednesday was utterly fabulous. Another cool day, the sky was filled with spectacular, billowing clouds, gentle cool breezes, and mild temperatures. We got off to a late start, nearly 1000, and continued our Turtle Camino, still nursing our injuries.
Thomas and I happened into Ann and Pantea in Fuentas Nuevas. We enjoyed coffee and conversation before restarting our journey through enchanting vineyards, rolling hills, and sweet streams. We stopped in Cacabelos for lunch and popped into the most fabulous cafe yet. After a delicious meal we enjoyed coffee by fireside inside a cozy tavern. Finding motivation to leave on this chilly, drizzly afternoon took quite a bit of effort but it was growing late and we still had seven kilometers to go. We arrived in Villafranca, a charming town at the base of the mountain we will climb tomorrow. An early evening after a long day seemed a good idea. Perhaps an earlier start tomorrow...
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